self drafted shirt

Self-drafted blue shirt – getting closer to perfect sleeve?

Hello there! Thanks to those of you who recently followed my blog. I am not updating it as often I once did, but if you want you can also get some updates on my sewing princess instagram feed.

I hope you’re all well in spite of the current circumstances. As many countries are proceeding to ease lockdown measures, we still have to be cautious. Personally, I’ve been enjoying the regained freedom of going out when and how I want. It doesn’t mean I am going out more…but I simply found quite crazy I needed to fill out and carry around a form stating where I was going.
Anyway, on to sewing…these pictures were taken back in February little did we know the traveling would become an issue…

If you’ve been following my blog for some time you may know I have an issue with sleeve fit on woven fabric especially…it’s hard for me to get it right. Though I have taken courses both online and in person I never quite nailed it. As I live in a small town and work full-time, it’s hard for me to take professional courses, not to mention many instructors have been unable to answer my questions. So, I started 2020 with a short patternmaking course that seemed to hold the answer to my questions…from their Instagram feed they seemed to be quite obsessive about fit and promoted a revolutionary method to do it. Though very expensive considering sewing is a hobby, I started reasoning that in the worst case scenario I would come home with professionally taken measurements and at least one good fitting garment. I guess I was trying to save myself from a disappointment…

Unfortunately, I can’t reveal any information about the method as all participants are asked to sign non-disclosure agreements. Additionally, as to this day I am still doubtful about the claimed ‘originality’ of the method, I prefer not to include any promotional details. Not to mention, though instructors were overall nice and friendly (except when I struggled taking measurements on my buddy), I often felt I was part of a heavy marketing campaign.

This shirt is the second version I made…essentially compared to the version at the course I changed design and in terms of fit I had to lower the armhole and lengthen the bust dart. That said overall I was pleased with the fit I got from drafting the pattern according to the method and how measurements are taken. One thing I learned is that many of my sleeve fitting issues were due to lack of width in the bodice…otherwise said the shoulder point was too recessed. You can clearly see it if you compare this shirt to Melting pot blouse: Alma Sewaholic + Twiggy + Chic Birdy Kit by Klo

It was clear from this course that taking good measurements is fundamental and certainly from that point of view I was very happy with the course. Also the drafting method is very precise…whether original or not…I still can’t say…if I find out more I will let you know!

I was also very thankful they gifted me some extra fabric so I could create a second shirt…I had never owned a dark blue shirt and really liked how it looked and the drape (might be viscose blend)

Just to be clear I don’t usually wear the shirt fully buttoned…I just wanted to show you the fit :o) Sorry I forgot to take back pictures…there are darts at the back too for a closer fit.

If you’re interested in geeking out on sleeves, read this great post Subtleties in Drafting: Sleeves or read on fitting sleeves. Though I have to honestly say that until I took this course it was unclear to me where exactly the shoulder point was on my body….

Have a great weekend! Happy sewing!

4 thoughts on “Self-drafted blue shirt – getting closer to perfect sleeve?

  1. El ajuste de mangas y pantalones son los más difíciles a mi entender. Odio esas sisas que quedan bajísimas y no te dejan mover los brazos. No te has hecho fotos por detrás, pero parece que el ajuste de tu camisa es muy bueno. Y el diseño también me gusta. Y ahora lo más importante: ¿estás cómoda?

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hola Eva, gracias por tu comentario. Yo también odio esas sisas bajísimas. Por la parte trasera queda bien sobre todo en la sisa…tengo la espalda ancha y un poco curvada…en general con otros patrones no conseguía tanto ajuste. Estoy bastante comoda quizás podría todavía afinar un poco la sisa pero serían milimetros creo. La verdad es que en el curso a pesar de ser útil al final también intentaban convencerte de que era todo perfecto. Así que por eso me quedé desmotivada. Hasta el hecho que la pinza del pecho quedaba un poco corta me decían que estaba bien. Y cuando enseñé otra camisa con sisa algo estrecha me dijeron que se veía bien.

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  2. Such precise and confident stitching around that collar stand. And the cuffs are lovely too. A really nice design overall. Intriguing-sounding course. Sorry if this is a stupid question, but is it online? You mentioned the pictures are from February so could have been face to face.

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