La Maison Victor Review – Naomi Cardi

Despite having completed a couple of projects I didn’t get around to taking pictures… so I thought I would publish a nearly finished project and write a quick review!

It’s the first time I sew a La Maison Victor pattern…not bad since I’ve only had for 3.5 years!

Ho già finito degli altri capi ma non ho fatto le foto…quindi ho pensato di pubblicare quelle del cardigan quasi finito e scrivere una breve recensione!

Ho usato per la prima volta un cartamodello de La Maison Victor… non male considerando che ho comprato la rivista 3 anni e mezzo fa!

Background

La Maison Victor is a Belgian sewing magazine available in French, Dutch, German and, recently English. It’s published every two months and sold at newstands in Belgium, France, Germany, The Netherlands and UK. They also sell fabric kits, single patterns…but only ship to those countries (except UK)…unfortunately. The only good thing is that some of their patterns are now available in PDF.

Let me say that La Maison Victor sales strategy seems quite odd to me. If I had their great following (old magazines are collector’s items and gone in few seconds when put on sale!) I would put all patterns for sale in pdf right away…they are just sitting on a goldmine…or at least on a good revenue stream ;o)

La Maison Victor è una rivista di cartamodelli belga disponibile in francese, olandese, tedesco e recentemente inglese. E’ bimestrale ed in vendita in edicola in Belgio, Francia, Germania, Olanda e Regno Unito. Vendono anche kit di cucito, cartamodelli singoli…che spediscono solo in questi paesi (tranne Regno Unito)…purtroppo. La cosa positiva è che alcuni dei cartamodelli sono ora in vendita online in PDF.

Personalmente trovo la strategia commerciale de La Maison Victor alquanto peculiare. Se avessi il loro seguito (le vecchie copie della rivista sono da collezione e vendute in pochi secondi quando sono messe in vendita!) renderei disponibili tutti i cartamodelli in pdf immediatamente… sono seduti su una miniera d’oro…o per lo meno su una buona fonte di guadagno ;o)

Patterns

The magazine includes both sewing and knitting patterns for women, men and babies. The styling is just to die for! Or at least they appeal to my aesthetic ;o) When it comes to the actual patterns I must admit I have been finding less and less reasons to buy it. Why? The patterns tend to be pretty basic and given my extensive pattern collection I know I will be able to make ‘the one I like’ from existing patterns and minimal effort. Not to mention I didn’t find anything of my liking in recent issues…other than the aesthetics. 

So…you might be asking…why on earth did you go through the effort of tracing the Naomi cardi pattern? I absolutely had no “need-based” reason to do it…I have made a pattern cardi before from a Burda turtleneck!

I was curious…I wanted to see what the pattern was like…many people have been raving about it and have been using it to make Chanel jackets… I was dreaming big!

But in all honesty…I wouldn’t have sewn it up this weekend if it hadn’t been for a mishap…of sorts…The grey double gauze from Pretty Mercerie wasn’t enough for the pants I was planning to make! I was so annoyed I turned to the Naomi Cardi I had already traced!

La rivista ha cartamodelli per cucito e maglia/uncinetto per donna, uomo e bambino. Lo styling della rivista è fantastico! O per lo meno sono in linea con la mia estetica ;o) Però quando analizzo i cartamodelli trovo sempre meno motivazione per comprarli. Perché? I cartamodelli sono abbastanza semplici e considerando la quantità che ho già accumulato riesco facilmente a trovare “quello che mi piace” tra quelli che ho già e senza grossi sforzi. Inoltre negli ultimi numeri non ho trovato nulla di interessante… a parte l’estetica.

Allora vi chiederete…perché hai fatto lo sforzo di tracciare il cardigan Naomi? Non avevo alcun motivo dal punto di vista del bisogno…ho un cartamodello di cardigan già pronto creato a partire da un dolcevita di Burda!

Ero curiosa… Volevo capire com’era il cartamodello…tutti ne parlano bene e l’ho visto usato per giacche Chanel… avevo grandi aspirazioni!

Ma onestamente non l’avrei realizzato questo fine settimana se non fosse stato per un contrattempo…in un certo senso… La doppia garza grigia presa da Pretty Mercerie non era sufficiente per i pantaloni che avrei voluto cucire! Ci sono rimasta così male che ho preso il cartamodello Naomi che avevo copiato qualche giorno prima!

As I had been reading super positive reviews about this top…I didn’t anticipate any fitting issues… So I just pressed ahead and didn’t make a muslin. 

Avendo letto recensioni molto positive…non immaginavo avrei avuto problemi di vestibilità… quindi mi sono precipitata e non ho fatto una telina di prova.

sewingprincess_naomicardigan_lamaisonvictor_sleeve

That was not a wise idea! I had already noticed a rather odd sleeve shape…But I didn’t realize it would end up hanging so low on me… It was nearly a inch too low and pulling in a strange way. I realize it’s hard to see…but that’s the best I managed with one hand ;o)

Non è stata affatto una saggia idea! Avevo notato che la manica aveva una forma un po’ strana… ma non mi ero resa conto che il giromanica sarebbe stato così profondo… Cadeva almeno 2 cm troppo in basso e tirava in modo strano. Mi rendo conto che dalla foto non si vede troppo…ma non sono riuscita a fare di meglio con una sola mano ;o)

sewingprincess_naomicardigan_lamaisonvictor

After loads of pondering and frustration…and cursing myself for not making a muslin…I tried something unorthodox…I raised the shoulder seam by 2 cm, reshaped the armhole (see below) and slighly redrafted the back neckline. It seemed this option would lead to a better fit reducing the armscye and sleeve width (at the armpit)… I had also thought I could copy the design from my favorite Dimity top but they were incompatible.

Dopo molte riflessioni e frustrazione… e dopo aver maledetto me stessa per non aver cucito un capo di prova… ho trovato una soluzione poco ortodossa… Ho ripreso la cucitura della manica accorciandola di due centimetri e ridisegnato la manica (vedi sotto). Nella foto sopra vedete il lato sinistro (con il cellulare) modificato e il lato destro originale. Facendo delle prove mi è sembrato che questa soluzione fosse migliore rispetto a stringere la manica e giromanica dalla parte inferiore (sotto l’ascella). Avevo anche considerato di ridisegnare completamente il giromanica e manica usando il mio amato Dimity top ma non erano compatibili.  

sewingprincess_naomicardigan_lamaisonvictor_sleeve_pattern

So…my take is beware of raving reviews…especially when they don’t give any fitting details…even the most successful and easiest patterns may hide surprises ;o)

Wish me luck on attaching snaps and on deciding what my next project should be…I’m all over the place right now!

Quindi la lezione… fate attenzione alle recensioni positive…soprattutto quando non ci sono dettagli sulla vestibilità e le modifiche…anche i cartamodelli più famosi e più semplici possono nascondere sorprese ;o)

Fatemi in bocca al lupo mentre cerco di cucire i bottoni a pressione e decido quale sarà il prossimo progetto… la mia mente vaga in tutti i sensi al momento!

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4 thoughts on “La Maison Victor Review – Naomi Cardi

  1. I was struck when you said, “Beware of rave reviews!” I had a similar experience with Simplicity 8601. It turned out that the armscye was a crazy shape and I didn’t notice that until I had sewn in the sleeve.

    I had thought it was MY problem that had somehow been created when I did my usual fsa and it’s still possible that’s true although I’ve been doing this fsa for years without issue on many other patterns. When I tried on the top – I hadn’t done a muslin either which is highly unusual for me but I thought the top was so simple SURELY it will be fairly straight-forward! The sleeve pulled at the front. I knew I would’t wear it which annoyed me no end since I had used some beautiful Liberty cotton to make it! So I removed the sleeve, deciding to make it sleeveless with bias tape and still the armsye is a little wonky but wearable anyway.

    No one who reviewed this pattern said anything about this “strange” armscye. I’m writing a review now for my blog and I certainly will. I think these companies offer free patterns/fabric for a review and bloggers feel a need to say only good things? I’m not sure what’s happening. As sewists we don’t like to be too harsh and we also have a tendency to take the problems on ourselves – lack of skill, paying attention or directions or fabric choices rather than pointing a finger at the designers.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. The issue of ‘honest reviews’ is clearly there. After a few years sewing I can safely say that. My personal take is that it’s a combination of people getting something for free, having a sort of loyalty/admiration towards indie pattern makers because you tend to identify with them, consider them as ‘friends’, wanting to promote their effort without being able to dissociate the person from the product…but I also think there’s an honest and sheer lack of knowledge among many of us (I remember discussing this at a meetup with fellow bloggers). I sew as a hobby…though I studied patternmaking and took classes I’m not a pro. Fitting patterns right is a challenge especially when you do it on your own…so I am aware that even when I say ‘sleeve were drafted in a weird manner’ or ‘I think the shoulder width was way too narrow for that size’ I compare it to standards I know of and to the best of my knowledge…but I might be wrong. In general there are standard measurements that can be used for patternmaking…but you could decide your pattern sloper is different…it will fit some people for sure ;o) Unless errors are very obvious, e.g. a placket is shorter than the CF shirt length we can have a hard time pointing finger to designers. That’s why I believe sharing our honest experience is very positive. Thanks again for chiming in

      Like

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