Burda 10/2012 118a: The tale of huge armholes!

Cowl Dress 10/2012 #118A

No, that’s not me posing! I wish!!!

No, non sono io nella foto…magari!!!

This dress is the reason why I bought Burda 10/2012! I have been waiting to make it since (don’t give up hope!). Gorgeous versions started popping up: Kristy made it twice (One and two), then Kbenko, Frogs in the bucket, The Slapdash Sewist, Allison C, Sigrid, Roz and many more)

And the perfect grey double knit came  as a gift through the post last year!!!

Fast forward to Easter weekend I started making it…I thought….it will be a fast project.

Yes, the pattern is made for a woven but a knit will be much better. I can use my usual 38 without SA (after removing some length)…I will have it in no time…

Yeah, right! Unexpected issues started to pop up:

Questo vestito è il motivo per cui ho comprato  Burda 10/2012! Da allora volevo farlo (mai disperare!). Ho cominciato a vederne versioni fantastiche su internet Kristy ne ha fatti due (Uno edue), then KbenkoFrogs in the bucket, The Slapdash SewistAllison CSigridRoz molti altri)

E mi è stata regalata una fantastica maglina pesante grigia l’anno scorso!!!

Finalmente il weekend di Pasqua ho cominciato a lavorarci pensando…sarà un progetto veloce!

Sì, il modello era per una stoffa senza stretch ma ho pensato sarebbe stato meglio in maglina. Posso cucire la solita 38 senza margini di cucitura (dopo averlo accorciato)…sarà pronto in un batter d’occhio…

Sì certo! I problemi sono arrivati uno dopo l’altro:

1. Cutting the front pattern piece means you need a lot of space! I had to use my ironing board to get extra space.

2. I didn’t manage to cut the hem straight so had to shorten it.

3. I didn’t re-read all above posts before making my version, so the cowl is cut on straight of grain as instructed! Not a big deal given it´s a knit but still…

4. I did mark the right side of the fabric…but managed to do it wrongly. And only realized after sewing both back darts.

5. Have you ever tried to unpick elastic stitches without losing your sanity or ripping the fabric?

6. It must have taken me at least 30 minutes to unpick one dart and I did make one hole!

7. I diligently basted the dress…from the waist down it was perfect

8. From the waist up…huge! Welcome to numerous refitting attempts

1. Per tagliare il davanti c’è bisogno di spazio! Ho dovuto usare l’asse da stiro!

2. Non sono riustita a tagliare l’orlo dritto quindi ho dovuto accorciare il vestito.

3. Non ho letto tutti gli altri blog prima di cominciare quindi il collo è tagliato sul drittofilo mentre la gonna è in sbieco. Proprio come nelle istruzioni. Vista la stoffa non è un problema grave ma…

4.  Ho segnato il dritto della stoffa con attenzione…ma ho sbagliato lo stesso. E me ne sono accorta solo dopo aver cucito entrambe le pinces.

5. Avete mai provato a scucire dei punti elastici senza perder la pazienza o fare buchi nella stoffa?

6. Mi ci è voluta almeno mezz’ora per scucirne una e ho fatto un buco!

7. Ho imbastito tutto il vestito…perfetto dalla vita in giù

8. Ma dalla vita in su era enorme! E lì ho cominciato a fare innumerevoli prove per migliorare la situazione 
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9. Followed by: baste, get undressed, try it on, add pins,  get dressed, baste, mark change on the pattern, repeat! Even writing it makes me tired!

10. There were nearly 2 inches extra at the sleeve and armhole and 3/8 at the shoulder.

11. How on earth is it possible that a person with my waist and hips has such a bit upper bust???

12. This was when I started reconsidering Big 4 patterns: yes, I have to cut two sizes down but at least they are proportionate!

13. More issues while serging the armhole and hemming…broken serger needle, fabric caught in the sewing machine.

9. Seguito da: imbastisci, svestiti, prova, aggiungi gli spilli, rivestiti, imbastici, segna le modifiche sul modello, ripeti! Mi stanco solo a scriverlo!

10. C’erano quasi 5 cm di troppo nelle maniche e nel giromanica e 1,5 cm sulle spalle.

11. Come è possibile che una persona con la mia vita e i miei fianchi abbia un busto così grande???

12. A questo punto ho cominciato a riprendere i considerazioni i modelli americani: sì, è vero la taglia giusta è 2 in meno rispetto a quello che c´è scritto ma almeno sono proporzionati!

13. Altri problemi mentre cucivo giromanica e orlo…ago della taglia e cuci rotto, stoffa incastrata nella macchina da cucire.

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14. And of course I made another hole when hemming the sleeves…2 inches/5cm off! Now they are perfect 3/4 length sleeves.

14. E ovviamente ho fatto un altro buco mentre cucivo l’orlo delle maniche…ho dovuto tagliare 5 cm! Adesso sono delle perfette maniche a 3/4!

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15. Luckily 10 days later the dress is done…but the weather was so crappy today (after a summer day yesterday!) I couldn’t take pictures.

I will then leave you with my tale and my phone pictures.

One recommendation from my side…if you make this dress…DO MAKE A MUSLIN FIRST! 🙂

HAVE A GREAT WEEK!

15. Per fortuna 10 giorni dopo il vestito è finito…ma il tempo faceva talemente schifo oggi (dopo la giornata estiva di ieri!) che non ho potuto fare le foto.

Vi lascio quindi con la mia storia e le foto del telefono.

Solo una raccomandazione da parte mia…se fate questo vestito…FATE PRIMA UN MODELLO DI PROVA! 🙂

BUONA SETTIMANA!

 

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19 thoughts on “Burda 10/2012 118a: The tale of huge armholes!

  1. Oh Silvia, I sympathise with you! I do the same routine as you everytime I want to try out a new pattern and if it doesn’t work out in the end, I console myself by turning to a TNT pattern- I have many dresses from my TNT pattern!!! Looking forward to seeing your finished dress!

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  2. Oh, you made this design! I’ve loved this design since the magazine came out and have had plans to make it – as yet unrealized, of course!

    I’m sorry you had so many problems with it. But I really appreciate your added info on the pattern. A lot of the things that didn’t work for you might make it easier for me, since those are areas where I usually have to ADD fabric! I will definitely make a muslin though!

    I’m looking forward to seeing your finished dress!

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  3. Oh what bad luck! I was going to make that one too one day. Must bookmark your post & check out those others you mentioned before I make.

    Do you think the knit fabric has anything to do with the fitting issue? One of my cowl neck grew a bit because I had cut it on the crossgrain (the stretchiest grain).

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  4. Oh Sylvia! Pattern fitting! It’s like prepping walls before painting…you know, the filling of holes, and washing, and sanding…the most work, and the least fun! I’ve been caught not doing it; poor fitting clothing being the result. Years, {and Years!} ago, I never had to do much pattern fitting. I like to think that they don’t make patterns like they used to, but I strongly suspect it’s my body shape that has taken a turn for the uniquely me shape! The good news with your pattern choice here, is that it really is a beautiful design, and one that would look lovely and so many different fabrics and prints! Would love to see you modeling your dress when the sun shines again!

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  5. Pero estoy segura que el resultado valió totalmente la pena!! A veces probar nuevos patrones pueden volvernos locas, yo prefiero tomarme todo el proceso como un aprendizaje en vez de como una enorme cantidad de trabajo. Estoy deseando verte con él puesto!!

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  6. Oh no! Your post was so painful to read! The good thing is that you finished it, despite all of the problems and frustrations. Looking forward to seeing the photos!

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  7. Oh no no no that’s awful. You poor thing …. and then the weather didn’t cooperate. Darn it!

    I hope you like the finished dress though? I have plans to make this one as well and, um, well now I’m nervous 🙂

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  8. I always have to do a lot of fitting to get Burda patterns to work for me, although sometimes they are worth the effort. This post was tiring just to read! Good for you for persisting. 🙂 The dress is very pretty.

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  9. Ay, Silvia, que lio! Me asombra tu perseverancia porque yo hubiese dejado el proyecto tirado de lado despues de los primeros tres of cinco contratiempos (no tengo nada de paciencia!!). Espero que al final haya resultado mas o menos para poder ponerselo. Esa tela me parece conocida … 🙂

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  10. Awww, that sounds like a sewing nightmare! I hope your dress turned out alright in the end. 🙂
    I’m actually wondering if the huge amount of ease isn’t a pattern feature? The bodice does look pretty big and drapey on the model, even though the folds suggest that the fabric doesn’t have that much drape. I imagine that could translate into quite a bit too much ease in a drapier knit fabric…

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