Yeah, I finally am making pants! Precisely Vogue 1051 Alice + Olivia Pattern now out of print. Yes, it’s a fitting challenge…Yes, my legs are not as long as the model’s…I have already removed 2.5 inches!
I am even taking Pants Fitting Techniques with Sandra Betzina on Craftsy.
Si’ finalmente sto cucendo dei pantaloni! In particolare il modello Vogue 1051 Alice + Olivia ormai fuori stampa. Sì ci sono modifiche da fare…e le mie gambe non sono lunghe come quelle della modella…ho già tolto 5 cm!
E sto anche seguendo il corso di Craftsy sulle Modifiche di vestibilità per i pantaloni con Sandra Betzina.
I tried hard to make these pictures presentable but let’s face it muslin is never so much fun to photograph…and I couldn’t really go outside with pins all over the place. So…as we are all in the same boat when it comes to fitting I thought it could be acceptable…I HOPE! 🙂
Changes already made
- I started off with size 12 and and took in 3/8 inch (1 cm) at the side seams
- I added a 3/8 inch (1 cm)dart at Center Back as the waistband was gaping as usual
- I shortened the pants by 2 inches
Ho cercato di rendere queste foto presentabili ma siamo sinceri le foto di prove fatte con cotone non tinto non sono mai divertenti da fotografare…e non mi sembrava il caso di uscire di casa con gli spilli puntati. Quindi..visto che tra noi ci campiamo ho pensato che l’avreste tollarato…SPERO!
Modifiche già fatte
- Ho cominciato con la taglia 12 e ho stretto i pantaloni ai lati di 1 cm
- Ho aggiunto una pince di 1 cm sul centro dietro perche’ rimanevano staccati in vita
- Ho anccorciato i pantaloni di 2 cm
Fitting issues to solve:
- Baggy seat
- Raise back crotch length where it meets the waistband (currently line not parallel to the floor)
- Raise the back crotch at the lower curve to fix a slight wedgie
- Shorten front crotch (it´s slightly baggy)
- Shorten length by another half inch (1,2 cm)
Do you think I am heading in the right direction? Am I missing something or doing something wrong?
Thanks a lot for your suggestions!
Modifiche da fare:
- Eliminare l’eccesso di stoffa sotto il sedere (esiste un termine in italiano per questo problema?…mi vengono solo in mente parole colloquiali)
- Allungare il cavallo dietro all’altezza del cinturino (la linea non è parallela al pavimento)
- Alzare la curva sotto il cavallo dietro perché finisce troppo nel sedere (scusate ma non so come spiegarlo!)
- Accorciare il cavallo anteriore (avanza del tessuto)
- Accorciare ancora la lunghezza di 1,2 cm circa
Che ne dite sto andando nella giusta direzione? O mi sono persa qualcosa? O sto prendendo qualche cantonata?
Grazie mille per i consigli!
My last pants experiment (ufo) looked almost identical! Maybe the be inseam length is too long? It can be fixed with a fisheye dart, I heard, but there’s an easier method that I saw somewhere on the Threads magazine website. Basically, it involved taking a wedge out near the top of the leg (just under the butt) and adding it back on at the hem. Anyway, that’s what I’m planning to try next. Good luck and please post your progress!
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It looks like you are heading in the right direction! I wish I had some advice to offer that would make it easy for you, but my fitting method for pants is entirely trial and error, and my body is shaped very differently from yours anyway so my fixes wouldn’t be the same for you most likely.
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Sadly, I have no advice to give because I have yet to venture into the world of trouser making. I do own this pattern (bought it to take my very awful pant class two years ago – the class went nowhere in case you are wondering) so I’ll be following your adventures closely in case I ever get the urge to revisit this pattern.
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I am no help either. Most pants I make fit me pretty good or can be fixed by bringing in or letting out waist or hips. (Not that I make that many)
I think you need a friend there to help you as you go through the process. after all how do you pin where you can’t reach?
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Good luck to you on this journey, pants are not easy! I’m afraid I don’t have anything to help except to say I’ve had more luck with Burda pants than A+O patterns
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From the photos I guess that we have similar issues. Choosing the right size according to the hip measurement didn’t work for me. Now I go down a size and make the following adjustment to add the missing circumference: http://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-full-or-flat-butt-adjustments.
This does not only help with the seat area, but also ensures that the trouser legs are not too wide.
I hope this helps!
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I use the fisheye dart method to remove the excess fabric under the butt! It does help. It’s also time to train Mr in the use of pins, I think. My husband is getting the hang of it now and it really does help to have an extra pair of hands 😉
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You chose a beautiful pattern, very chic! Good luck with the fitting!
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