After making my first version of La Mia Boutique 3/2014 pants I was determined to alter the pattern: I wanted a lower waist and slimmer leg.
The pants were fitting me well in the waist and hip area so no alterations needed.
To lower the waistline: I removed the waistband completely. I then dropped the waistline by 1 inch and drew a new line. From the cutout (ensuring all darts are closed) I created a new curved waistband. Finally I added back all seam allowances on the waistband and pants. If you want more info on this alteration, read How to draft a skirt with a joke tutorial
For slimmer legs: I simply copied the width from a pair of pants I like.
Dopo la prima versione dei pantaloni La Mia Boutique 3/2014, volevo farne un altro paio e modificarli un po’: vita bassa e gamba più stretta.
Il modello andava bene nella zona vita e fianchi quindi non era necessario fare altre modifiche.
Per la vita bassa: ho eliminato il cinturino. Ho poi disegnato una linea parallela alla vita di 2,5 cm più bassa. Da questa parte del cartamodello ho ricavato il cinturino (chiudendo prima le pinces). Per finire ho aggiunto di nuovo i margini di cucitura del cinturino e dei pantaloni. Se volete sapere come si fa in dettaglio date un´occhiata a questo tutorial How to draft a skirt with a joke tutorial
Per modificare l´ampiezza delle gambe: ho semplicemente copiato un paio di pantaloni che avevo.
Since I made those pants before, they came together very fast. After all fit was fine before and I only lowered the waist, so I didn’t bother making a mock pair. They would fit, right?
Visto che avevo già fatto questo cartamodello, li ho cuciti in fretta. Dopo tutto mi stavano bene prima e viste le modifiche minime non c´era bisogno di fare un paio di prova. Tanto sarebbero andati bene, giusto?
Wrong! You don’t notice it much at the front but the back seems now too low as if it didn’t cover my bum properly. The waistband doesn’t feel as fitted as before. I am puzzled.
I am not so bothered by the back wrinkles as they were there before and I feel they could be worse since I am wearing flat shoes instead of heels.
As this ever happened to you? And most importantly, would you have any advice?
Sbagliato! Non si vede molto sul davanti, ma il dietro sembra non coprire sufficientemente il mio posteriore. Il cinturino non è abbastanza stretto. Non so cosa pensare.
Le pieghe sul dietro non mi disturbano troppo visto che c’erano anche prima e credo siano accentuate dalle scarpe basse che indossavo qui.
Vi è mai successo qualcosa del genere? E soprattutto, avreste qualche consiglio da darmi?
Sewing Princess 
I’m sorry. I just can’t concentrate on your sewing. This wallpaper is much too freakingly awesome. Not to speak about the cool couch and pillows! Wow, that is so beautiful.
Anyways: I really don’t know anything about pants fitting, so I’m sorry. Can’t help you. Though the fronts does look perfect…
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Thanks Annika! I also fell in love with that wallpaper!
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It looks like your waistband is slipping because it doesn’t have enough tension to hold it up properly. It’s been a long time since I wore such low-waisted pants, but I remember having that problem with RTW hip huggers. They need that indent at the waist to ‘hold on’ to. Or else the fabric needs a bit of negative ease to maintain tension. And I agree. Love your wallpaper!
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Caroline, thanks so much for your feedback. It does seem to make sense. Your comment also made me realize that if I raise slightly the waistline I may also manage to get a better fit.
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Are they comfortable to wear? – if they are I think it’s ok – pants have such a complex geometry and it’s so easily altered by the use of different fabrics! That fabric is beautiful and the seem to be finished to perfection.
… ps I want that wallpaper 🙂
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Somehow they feel they are pulling down at the back… But that didn’t stop me from wearing them at Abilmente. If I don’t tuck in my tops they are ok… Or at least nobody dared to say anything 😉
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Could it be a difference of fabric? One thing I find so difficult about sewing pants is that the differing amounts of stretch in different fabrics are so much more noticeable here than in other garments. It’s one of the things that keeps me from sewing more pants!
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Actually it’s exactly the same fabric. That’s why I’m even more puzzled… Guess it’s time for me to make a dress 😉 thanks!
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Then that is super mysterious!! I wish it could have been an easy answer for you!
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Thanks so much in any case Gail. I really appreciate it.
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Sadly, I have no great advice. However, the Thurlow trousers (that I’ve only ever made a muslin of, and haven’t yet managed to fit very well) have a very cool method of sewing the back crotch and waistband together, with a bigger seam allowance, to get a good fit. Like, you sew the back crotch seam only half-way, then attach the waisband, which has a seam in the middle back, and then you can baste/sew the back including the waistband for the best fit. Does that make sense? I even have a pair of RTW trousers that are made the same way and I think it makes sense…
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Thanks Alessa. I bought Thurlow trousers too and I indeed know that they are constructed to allow for last-minute fitting. Thanks for reminding me I should also try those.
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Ciao Silvia,
credo che le pieghe si formino perché i pantaloni sono un po’ larghi in vita e scendono. Per la cintura dietro ti confesso che capita anche a me, a volte, io la risolvo facendo una piccola ripresa all’interno della cintura (sul rovescio), proprio nella parte centrale dietro. Più di così non riesco a spiegarmi…
A presto
Sabrina
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Grazie Sabrina. Ti sei spiegata benissimo, ho capito! Il problema o meglio la frustrazione con questi pantaloni e’ stata che visto il precedente tentativo pensavoo mi calzassero come un guanto e quindi non ho neanche perso tempo a provarli! Chiaramente ho imparato la lezione!
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I misteri del cucito.
Buona festa
Sabrina
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Ciao Silvia!
per quanto ne so io, il cinturino è largo quando la misura della vita che hai sul pantalone o qualsiasi altro capo che si appoggia su vita e fianchi non combacia con la tua: il pantalone quindi si “appoggia” sulla prima “fermeture” che trova, vale a dire i fianchi. per correggere il tutto non so come aiutarti purtroppo (sono ancora ferma ai vestiti!) ma direi che la spiegazione tecnica sia questa! se qualcuno ne sa di più di me, mi corregga che è solo il benvenuto! ciaooooo!!!!ps: bella la lampo!!!!
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ps: allunga il montante del cavallo dietro di qualche centimetro, ti è troppo corto sul dietro e la stoffa viene “tirata” verso l’alto, facendoti le pieghe anche sul sedere e nell’entro gamba.
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Grazie per i suggerimenti Nicoletta! Sono davvero utili. La prossima volta ci provo.
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I have this problem when I try to adjust patterns, moving the waistband from waist to high hip: I have a distinct ‘dip’ inwards at my high hip, so the smooth side seam line from my low hip to my waist actually has a lot of ease at the high hip level. So if I just remove the waistband and cut a few centimeters off the top of the pattern, to take the waistband height down to high hip level, the waistband ends up far too wide. I have to measure my high hip, and take in the top of the pattern (at the side seams and extend the darts down also) and draft a new curved waistband.
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Thanks for your tips. I will try to apply that next time, too. I feel somehow better knowing you experienced the same issue as I did 🙂
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