Basic Black: V-Neck Midi Dress O – Japanese Sewing Book Review & Make

cover basic black

Basic Black is one of Sato Watanabe’s most recent book to be released in English. I love Japanese books and black (and gray ;o) and happened to have a long strip of black linen in my stash…so I couldn’t miss the opportunity to make a new dress!

Basic Black e’ uno degli ultimi libri di Sato Watanabe ad essere tradotti in inglese. Purtroppo non è ancora in vendita su Amazon Italia, ma potete trovarlo su Amazon UK. Adoro i libri giapponesi e il nero (e anche il grigio :) e avevo una lunga striscia di lino nero tra le mie stoffe…quindi non ho resistito e ho cucito un vestito nuovo. 

basic-black-o-front

When Tuttle Publishing asked me to review on of their recent titles, I chose Basic Black because the patterns really appealed to me. Unlike other Japanese books it mixes loose fitting garments and more fitted silhouettes.
Though I love loose garments on other people I am never quite comfortable to wear them myself. That’s why I chose to make the V-Neck Midi Dress O!

Quando Tuttle Publishing mi ha chiesto se volessi recensire uno dei loro libri ho scelto Basic Black perché mi piacevano i modello. Diversamente da altri libri di cucito giapponesi ci sono sia modelli ampi che modelli più attillati. Anche se adoro i vestiti più ampi sugli altri, non mi sento a mio agio quando li indosso io. Ed è per questo che ho scelto il modello longuette con scollo a V, quello con la lettera O.

basic black o

I managed to squeeze the dress out using up all I had my stash…just enough to make it to that length!

Ho usato tutta la stoffa che avevo…non sarei riuscita a fare il vestito più lungo neanche di un centimetro.

basic-black-o-back

Just for the record: I did iron the dress before taking these pics ;)

Below you can find some of the patterns I like most from the book:

Per la cronaca: avevo stirato il vestito prima di fare le foto ;)

Qui di seguito alcuni dei modelli del libro che mi piacciono di più:

basic black a

basic black w

basic black s

basic black flannel short coat

If you are not familiar with Japanese sewing books, they seem quite daunting at the beginning (or at least they seemed so to me when I first used a Japanese book)…not much text and a lot of drawings. But in the end I prefer that!
They tell you by how many inches or cm (in brackets) you need to lengthen the bodice by, they show the sewing sequence…and you don’t need to read a lot of text (not that I can read Japanese!).

Se non avete mai cucito con libri giapponesi potrebbero sembrarvi complicati all´inizio (o almeno lo erano per me quando ho usato un libro in giapponese)…non ci sono molti testi ma sono pieni di disegni. Alla fine forse lo preferisco!

Ti dicono esattamente di quanti centimetri devi allungare il corpino, indicano la sequenza di cucito…e non devi leggere troppo testo (non che sia in grado di leggere il giapponese!). 

instructions

 

The book includes 26 patterns but you have to do a bit of drafting too…in the pattern I made as you can see in the tech drawing below I had to draft the skirt using the given measurements (and facing…but I skipped those due to lack of fabric). Personally I don’t mind it and it even gives me ideas to reuse existing patterns that already fit!

Il libro comprende 26 modelli ma bisogna disegnarne anche una parte…nel modello che ho scelto come si vede dal disegno tecnico qui sotto ho dovuto disegnare la gonna a partire dalle misure indicate (e in teoria anche la paramontura che però io non ho aggiunto). Personalmente questo non mi dispiace e anzi lo trovo utile perchè mi fa pensare a come modificare i modelli che ho già. 

o-v-neck-midi-dress-instructions_partial

 

The size chart shows the finished measurements. Designs are grouped in three categories: loose, shaped and fitted. Both metric and imperial measurements are provided. The patterns do not include seam allowances.
Regarding fit, here is my personal view: the bust is very loose compared to the other measurements.  I wonder if it’s a style preference in Japan.

Lo schema qui sotto riporta le misure del capo finito. I modelli sono raggruppati in 3 categorie a seconda della vestibilità: morbida, aderente medio, molto aderente. Le misure in centimetri vengono date tra parentesi anche se sono quelle più precise e che danno un miglior risultato. I modelli non comprendono i margini di cucitura.

Per quanto riguarda la vestibilità…ecco la mia personale opinione: la misura del giro seno da una vestibilità molto morbida. Mi chiedo se sia una preferenza stilistica giapponese.

size chart

The book also includes a two page section on Essential tools and Handy Gadgets…the geeky me loves that!

Il libro include due pagine sugli strumenti essenziali e quelli utili…adoro queste cose!

gadgets
I would love to try making the first blouse for a change (I added the tech drawing to better show you) …What do you think?
Bonus point: Did you notice the horribly misplaced bust darts on my dress? I even modified the pattern before cutting it as it seemed too low compared to my measurements…I was not happy when I realized that!

Mi piacerebbe cucire la prima blusa per cambiare (ho aggiunto il disegno tecnico per farvela vedere meglio)…che ne dite?

Il Punto Jolly: avete notato come la pince sul seno sia troppo in alto sul mio vestito? Non ci crederete ma l´ho modificata sul modello perché secondo me era troppo bassa rispetto alle mie misure…potete immaginare che gioia quando me ne sono accorta!

13 Comments on Basic Black: V-Neck Midi Dress O – Japanese Sewing Book Review & Make

  1. ooobop
    August 28, 2014 at 10:19 am (4 months ago)

    I keep coming back to this book. Lovely to see someone’s put it into action! Love a black dress and your’s is no exception!

    • Sewing Princess - Silvia
      August 28, 2014 at 8:03 pm (4 months ago)

      Thanks so much! I love black and this book has several patterns I like

  2. Carolyn
    August 10, 2014 at 2:58 pm (4 months ago)

    Your dress is very elegant, and I didn’t notice the darts either! The book looks really great, some really nice projects in there. Thanks for a terrific review :)

  3. jean
    August 9, 2014 at 4:20 pm (5 months ago)

    I did not notice the darts until you mentioned them! The dress is very classic and the fit looks great. I definitely think you should make the top — very cute style!

  4. PendleStitches
    August 1, 2014 at 9:00 pm (5 months ago)

    Nope…didn’t notice a problem with the darts. Too busy thinking how much nicer your version is than the one in the book! Very stylish indeed. And you really must make that blouse…it’s adorable.

    • Sewing Princess - Silvia
      August 7, 2014 at 8:00 am (5 months ago)

      Oh Evie that’s too kind! I guess even fitted Japanese patterns are not that fitted!

  5. Angie Norman
    July 31, 2014 at 5:07 am (5 months ago)

    Silvia, your dress is cute and looks great on you.I admire how you “jump in” to new sewing projects .

  6. Sasha
    July 30, 2014 at 11:43 am (5 months ago)

    Ciao … un vestitino molto carino … trovo le linee essenziali e pulite e ti sta molto bene – lunghezza perfetta :) Il lino è una rogna sotto certi aspetti ma d’estate è il più fresco…
    Ps. la blusa sarebbe fantastica … voglio anch’io una!!!!

  7. Sue @ A Colourful Canvas
    July 30, 2014 at 7:09 am (5 months ago)

    Great post! I borrowed several Japanese sewing books from my local library some months back, but at time just never got around to making any of them. Your post is re-igniting my interest. There really are some super unique and fun looking patterns in these books. AND! I love that first blouse, so I’d love to see you make it! I love your dress. Totally didn’t see the issue with the darts…it’s funny how we notice things on ourselves so much more than others!

    PS…yes, I live in Vancouver!

    • Sewing Princess - Silvia
      July 30, 2014 at 11:24 am (5 months ago)

      I am always attracted by Japanese books. I have 2 of the gorgeous pattern magic series but never had the courage to sew anything. This book is def. easier and has more patterns I would wear. Let me know if you need more info.

  8. Thewallinna
    July 29, 2014 at 11:18 pm (5 months ago)

    If you did not mention the darts, I would never pay attention to them :) The dress is very… Italian and very you. I can imagine how fun is it to style it for different occasions. And linen is such an amazing fabric to work with!

    • Sewing Princess - Silvia
      July 30, 2014 at 11:16 am (5 months ago)

      Inna, thanks for your kind words. It’s a simple silhouette but I like the a-line. Pity linen is such a pain to iron and creases 2 secs later.

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